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I’ve been using my Fully Jarvis Standing Desk for three months; I opted for the dark-bamboo, electric version of the 48″ x 30″ desk. In addition to using my own desk for the past three months, I’ve also assisted in assembling one electric desk similar to my own, and have also assembled a crank-powered version of the desk.

The desk is a pleasure to work on. The bamboo feels incredible to the touch, and seems incredibly sturdy. The desk doesn’t rock at all while you work on it, and remains stable even when raised to a standing height. It’s easy to raise the desk to the precise height you prefer, as the mechanism is very responsive. It’s a desk that absolutely won’t distract away from your work.

The electric lifting-and-lowering mechanism is smooth, quiet, and has remained reliable thus far. I haven’t had a single issue with it, nor seen any indication that it struggles to keep up. My biggest complaint with the desk is the design of the electronics underneath the desk – one of the lifting columns (legs) must be plugged-into the control unit in a downward orientation, which prevents the cables from sitting flush with the desk.

One of the cables underneath the Jarvis standing desk will be visible and cannot be easily hidden.
This cable will be visible underneath the Jarvis electric-powered standing desk

Assembly will take about an hour and all-but-requires two people, but isn’t very difficult or frustrating if taken slow and intentional. Once the desk is assembled, I imagine that most people would move it between homes as-is rather than disassembling and reassembling it.

At the time of writing, the Jarvis Standing Desk (Dark Bamboo, electric, 48″ x 30″ costs $534 + tax. Subscribing to Fully’s email newsletters allowed me to save 5% off with an instant discount code.

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I’ve had the pleasure of assembling three of Fully’s Jarvis standing desks over the past two months – two electric, and one Crank-Powered which saves you $70. If you’re looking too choose between the electric and crank-powered desk, this is the review for you. [See here for a review of the electric-powered version of the desk.]

Regardless of which option you choose, you’ll receive the lifting columns a few weeks before your receive the tabletop. The electric lifting columns arrive in two heavy boxes, whereas the hand-crank model arrives in a single box that’s even larger.

Building the Desk

Both the electric and the crank-powered are built similarly. You’ll assemble the lifting columns together, then screw them onto the table top, and lastly add the desk’s feet and add the hand-crank / electronics. You’ll need two people for assembly for some steps (i.e., one person holds the heavy foot while the other screws it into the assembly).

Once the lifting columns are bolted into the table-top, adding the electronics is very easy. You mount an electronics box to the underside of the desk, then plug-in both lifting columns and the height controller, do some cable management, and you’re all set.

On the hand-crank model, attaching the crank to the lifting columns is quite a bit more difficult. There are multiple simultaneous steps to assembling the crank-correctly, which include the application of pressure to a spring while everything is screwed-in. If you mess-up, you’ll bolt-in the handcrank but it won’t actually work, a situation we found ourselves in twice! Additionally, it’s super easy to lose a washer inside the lifting column while you’re attaching the hand-crank – be careful about this, since retrieving the washer will require shaking the entire desk on its side, or deconstructing it entirely and beginning anew.

We discovered that the hand-crank wasn’t working after we flipped the desk over, and attempted to repair it proper-side-up.

Using the Desk

Although building the handcrank desk was quite a bit more difficult than building the electric version, the desks appear equally stable once they’re finished. The hand-crank feels very flimsy, but it’s not difficult to raise or lower the desk (the flimsiness is more of a longevity concern). You’ll need too do a lot of cranking to get the desk height changed, which is a good thing as it prevents quick movements that rock the items on your desk.

Conclusion

There are two reasons to prefer a hand-crank standing desk: cost and longevity. While Fully’s standing desk is $70 cheaper, the crank feels flimsy and casts a doubt over its longevity compared to their electric model. We’d recommend avoiding the hand-crank version; if you’re looking to save $70, we’d recommend looking at other brands of standing desks (whether electric or crank-powered), or using the Jarvis electric lifting-column with your own tabletop to save money.

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Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus Review

I recently purchased a Philips Hue Lightstrip ($80 for the 6′ base, plus $25 for each 3′ extension) for my bedroom, supplementing two existing Hue bulbs. My bedroom has been a bit dark as my new apartment doesn’t have ceiling lights. In this review I’ll aim to answer:

  • What’s the mounting experience?
  • How much light does a Hue Lightstrip add to a room?
  • How does Hue’s functionality compliment the lightstrip?
  • Is the Hue Lightstrip worth it, compared to generic lightstrips on Amazon?

Mounting experience

The lightstrip arrives wrapped in a plastic sheath, which is intended to be kept on the lightstrip, given that the 3M adhesive has been pre-applied to the backside of the sheath. It’s possible to remove the protective plastic so that the lightstrip is less thick and less wide, but you’d need to re-apply an adhesive directly to the lightstrip, and the electronics might tear upon removal if you remove the plastic. The sheath is nicely protective, but you should note that this makes the lightstrip a bit wider than traditional lightstrips you’d find on Amazon.

Adhering the lightstrip to wall should be no issue; I mounted mine vertically and felt no risk that it’ll peel off. The adhesive isn’t sticky to the point where I’m worried about paint peeling off upon removal (it’s certainly less-sticky than some of the cheap Amazon lightstrips I’ve seen – those certainly do peel paint off).

A word of caution – connect the extension strips to the main strip before you begin mounting, and test all colors throughout the mounting process. My lightstrip remained on a white setting while I mounted it, and to my dismay I had accidentally pulled the extension a bit too loose, and the extended portions couldn’t display a blue light until I took it down and re-mounted.

To Philips’ credit, the extensions are well-built and sit flush with the wall, offering a consistent LED spacing. When you’re done mounting, you’d be hard-pressed to find where the primary lightstrip ends and the extension begins.

Filling a room with light

The Hue lightstrip (6′) + two extensions (3′ each) provide a ton of light, far more than two Philips Hue Color Bulbs in the same room. The lightstrip alone does a great job of filling a decent-sized bedroom, and far exceeded my expectations coming from cheap generic lightstrips. This is a product that can meaningfully brighten a room, and doesn’t solely exist as decorative lighting.

Hue functionality

If you’ve used Philips Hue before, you can expect the exact same functionality from your Hue Lightstrip. You can use the Hue app to set routines based on time or geo-location, you can change the light intensity and color / color temperature, and you can connect to Google Assistant / HomeKit / Alexa / Cortana. There’s no additional functionality for the lightstrip (i.e., you can’t set segments of the lightstrip to different colors or intensities, you can’t animate anything across the entire lightstrip).

Is Philips Hue Lightstrip worth it?

If you have an area in your home that lends itself well to a lightstrip and you’re already in the Philips Hue ecosystem, I’d highly recommend the Hue Lightstrip. While I acknowledge that it’s significantly more expensive than cheap generic lightstrips you’ll find online, it offers two distinct advantages:

  • Build Quality: Philips has invested in designing a well-built lightstrip – extensions are easy to add and LEDs end up evenly spaced [unlike generic lightstrips], the thick protective sheath ensures that the product can last for years, and the LEDs are extremely bright
  • Connectivity: Low-cost lightstrips rely on a flimsy remote that requires line-of-sight for control. Hue’s ability to connect to the internet is far superior, due to the convenience of linking with HomeKit / Google Assistant. By simply asking your HomePod or Google Assistant to “turn the lights on”, “make my light warm white”, or “dim my lights to 56%”, you can control the lighting in an entire room with ease.

If you’re not already invested in the Hue ecosystem, you’ll need to purchase a Hue Bridge in addition to the lightstrip, which drives the cost to a point where you’ll want to carefully consider whether Hue is the best option, or whether a bridge-less WiFi-connected lightstrip might work better for you.

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